6 Climbing Routes: Mount Brewster (New Zealand)

Mount Brewster climbing routes:

North East Ridge 2+

A long approach via Long Flat Creek leads up to the Main Divide. Sidle along the ridge turning problems on both left and right to reach a summit tower. Climb a chimney and loose blocks to gain the crest and the summit.

Bill Beaven, Ian Gibbs, Norman Hardie, John Harrison, Jock Montgomery, January 1966.

South East Face 2+ 

The first ascent of this peak was completed from the upper reaches of the Makarora River. Modern climbers can cross the ridge from the Brewster Glacier and follow a gully onto the crest.

C. Bentham, Cyril Turner, Samuel Turner January 1929.

South West Face 2+ 

From Brewster Hut sidle past Armstrong and Peak 2257 to reach the upper Brewster Glacier. Alternatively, from a camp on the Stey Brae ridge, traverse to the bottom of the face. A number of gully routes of moderate difficulty lead up to the crest. Move along the narrow summit ridge to the top. Descent is typically via a ridge and gully onto the south face, followed by a traverse back onto the Brewster Glacier.

P. Berry, G. Crowley, Harry Dowall, V. Heine, R.G. Kulka, J. McKenzie, D. Scott and Colin Todd, October 1953.

West Ridge 2

Normal route today. Bush bash up Warden Spur and over Topheavy Peak then follow the broad ridge to the summit. The top section can be tricky when plastered with sastrugi. Alternatively, walk in via Brewster hut and traverse to glacier across rough ground. Traverse in between 1750-1800m alt to avoid dangerous gully 5,5 hrs. Route across glacier and over triple pointed summit ridge 6 hrs return.

Mick Bowie, H.G. Courtney, 1934.

From the Wills Valley 2

Follow Fleming Creek and choose a route up either the east or west ridge.

Descended by Bill Beaven, Ian Gibbs, Norman Hardie, John Harrison, Jock Montgomery, January 1966.

North Island Detox 2+ 12 (100 m)

Natural gear required Walk west under the south west face until 50-100m from the south west ridge. A slab of compact rock exists on the right hand side of a buttress. Climb this to the top of the ridge (grade 12, 2 pitches) and then scramble along the ridge to the summit. A much better route in mid summer than the choss fest on the south west face.

Rob Addis, Chris Peacock 2010.

Google MAP:  Mountains (Horydoly.cz) 

LINZ Topographic Maps www.topomap.co.nz:

Mount Brewster: West ridge route (czech language only)